Garment construction



March 15, 1955 ROTH 2,703,884

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 23, 1951 a Sheets-Sheet i INVENTOR March 15, 1955 H. ROTH GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Feb. 23, 1951 INVENTOR Ear M Both 44, ATTORNEY March 15, 1955 H. ROTH 2,703,884

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 23, 1951 3 Sheets-Shee t 3 I fir f )MH 11/ 1/0 INVENTOR HaZa71/ ATTORNEY United States Patent GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Harold Roth, New York, N. Y.

Application February 23, 1951, Serial No. 212,311

4 Claims. (Cl. 2-42) The present invention relates to a garment construction and it particularly relates to a garment construction 1n which the upper portion consists of a foundation type garment to support the body, such as is characteristic of a brassiere or a brassire slip.

It is among the objects of the present invention to provide a novel, decorative garment construction which may be readily fitted to the wearer and which may be put on and taken off without undue difliculty.

A further object is to provide a novel garment construction having openings in elastic panels which will assure most accurate and close fit, giving necessary support without afiecting the drape or hang of the garment and which may be readily manufactured.

Still further objects and advantages will appear in the more detailed description set forth below, it being understood, however, that this more detailed description is given by way of illustration and explanation only and not by way of limitation, since various changes therein may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention.

With the foregoing and other objects in view, the invention consists of the novel construction, combination and arangement of parts as hereinafter more specifically described, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, wherein is shown an embodiment of the invention, but it is to be understood that changes, variations and modifications can be resorted to which fall within the scope of the claims appended hereto.

In the drawings wherein like reference characters denote corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Fig. 1 is a front elevational view showing the front of the garment construction upon a wearer.

Fig. 2 is a back view of the garment construction upon a wearer.

Fig. 3 is a plan view showing the various fabric elements which are assembled together to form the garment construction of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a top rear elevation in perspective, showing an alternative form of garment construction, without straps.

Fig. 5 is a rear view of the garment construction of Fig. 4 upon a smaller scale as compared to Fig. 4, showing the garment of Fig. 4 upon a human figure.

Fig. 6 is a transverse horizontal sectional view upon the line 6-6 of Fig. 4 upon an enlarged scale as compared to Fig. 4.

Referring to Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the garment has a breast supporting portion M and a skirt portion N. The portion M is made up of two top cup sections A, two bottom cup sections B, two central diaphragm sections C, two outside, front diaphragm bands D, two rear side sections E, and a rear back section F.

In the construction shown, the sections D and F consist of elastic or elasticized leno fabric, the stretch of which is indicated by the arrows 10 and 11 (see Fig. 3). The sections A, B, C and E may be of nylon or other suitable fabrics and the weave or warp extends as indicated by the arrows 12, 13, 14 and 15 (see Fig. 3).

The top of the sections A to F, all inclusive, of Fig. 3 is respectively indicated by the arrows 16 in respect to section A, 17 in respect to section B, 18 in respect to section C, 19 in respect to section D, 20 in respect to section E and 21 in respect to section F.

The section A, which forms the top cup and the basic part of the structure of the garment, has a centrally projecting portion 22. The portion 22 extends downwardly,

as indicated in Fig. 1, and is joined together with the sections C at a point below the breast cups. To secure the junction 24 and the shaping pleat 25, the cut-in portion 26 and the point 27, section A of Fig. 3, is folded three times to give the dart construction.

The notches 28 and 29 of the sections A will be joined along the central seam or junction 24.

As a result of folding together points 28 and 29 by way of three folds, the dart construction 25 is formed and the section A is both straight and on the bias and will give most excellent control and foundation to breasts without constriction. In this construction the straightcut part of the section A is firm while the bias-cut part of the cup portion A stretches to conform to the shape of the breasts and creates an outward illusion of separation.

The bottom cup section B has a top section 30 which is joined to the top section A at the point 31 and its bottom point 32 extends to the junction between the top out section A and the inner diaphragm section C. The edge 33 forms the seam 34 while the edge 35 forms the seam 36. The edge 37 is joined to the seam 38 at the forward edge of the zipper 39 at one side, as indicated at Fig. 2. The rear edge 40 of the upper cup section A is also joined to the zipper 39 along the seam 41.

The upper portion or top point 41 of the section A connects to the adjustable straps 42 having the adjustment 43 which extends over the shoulder, as indicated at 44.

The upper edges 45 and 46 are respectively folded in wardly and sewn to a tape at the seams 47 and 48, respectively.

The edges 49 and 50, after formation of the dart 25, will be sewn into the central seam 24.

In respect to the diaphragm band sections C, the curved upper edge 65 is sewn to the lower edge 66 of the section B to form the straight, lateral seam 67. The edge 68 is sewn to the edge 51 of the section A to form the seam 69. The edge 70 is sewn together with the edge of the opposite section C to form the seam 71. The lower edge 72 is sewn to the top 73 of the skirt portion N to form the seam 74. The outer edge 75 of the section C is sewn to the inside edge 76 of the section D to form the seam 77. The section D and its upper edge 78 is sewn to the lower part of the section B to form the seam 79. The bottom edge 80 is sewn to the upper portion 73 of the skirt N to form the seam portion 81. The outer end 82 at one side of the garment, as indicated at 83, is sewn to the slide fastener 39. It will be noted that the slide fastener extends substantially below the seam 81 to the point 84.

The diaphragm band section C is usually of nylon or other Woven material and is cut on a 40% bias from the straight and its main purpose is to control any excess roll on the body portion adjacent the diaphragm without undue restriction.

The pull may be in any direction and the section C is so shaped that it will give the support necessary by approximately 4%.

The elastic insert D forms part of the diaphragm band and also, together with the section C, will control any excess roll on the body without any undue restriction upon the diaphragm. Moreover, the section D is so shaped as to flatten the garment to conform to the normal shape of the body and to give suthcient yield of movement to the torso or upper part of the body so as to prevent seam breakage and allow comfort.

The side, rear section B, at its top edge 95, is turned over and provided with a reinforcement to form the upper seam 96 (see Fig. 2). The outside edges 97 are joined to the side of the zipper, as indicated at 98 in Fig. 2, and also to the side of the panel D at the other side, as indicated at the seam 99 in Fig. 1. The bottom edge 100 is joined at 101 to the upper rear portion 102 of the skirt N. The inside edge portion 103 is joined to the side edge portion 104 of the rear section F to form the seams 105.

The elastic back section F has the recessed upper edge 106 with the side portions 107 which carry the lower ends 108 and the rear portions 109 of the shoulder straps.

The bottom portion 110 of the section F has the curved edges 111 which are joined along the seams 112 to the upper portion 102 of the rear of the skirt N.

Both the elastic sections D and F are cut straight on the bow of the weave and their positioning and shaping assures that the upper part of the garment or the sections M will conform to the body motion. The elasticity is uniformly distributed over the upper portion of the body and the elasticity of the sections D and F will give a continuation of the chest band to allow expansion of the back band and the cup sections A and 'B and will also give a continuation of the diaphragm band C to allow conformity.

The zipper enclosure, by going down below the waist, permits ease of fit and taking the garment over the upper portion of the body and also enables the wearer to readily remove the garment.

Also, hooks and eyes and snap fasteners are positioned beyond the slide fastener 39 so as to reinforce the closure and prevent undue strain upon the slide fastener or damage to the body.

Referring to Figs. 4, 5 and 6, there is shown the same type of garment without straps and in which a covering is provided for the elastic sections.

It is to be understood that the straps may be omitted upon the structure as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 and that suitable bones may be provided, as along'the seams 24, 98 or 105, to support the structure or breast-covering portions in elevated position.

In the structure shown in Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the elastic material is shown covered by an outer fabric construction.

Referring to Figs. 4, 5 and 6, there is shown a breastcovering portion P and a skirt section Q.

The breast-covering portion P has one or more elastic inserts, as indicated by R, which may be covered by the facing fabric S.

Referring specifically to Figs. 4, 5 and 6, the garment construction has an upper breast-supporting structure P having the rear panel 110, which may consist of an inside elastic section R and an outside covering section S. It has the rear side panels 111 and 112.

The panel 112 is provided with the slide fastener opening 113, the end of which extends downwardly to the position 114 below the waistline 115.

The front of the garment has the lower side sections 116, which may be elastic, as shown at D in Figs. 1 and 2, or straight fabric.

The breast covering portions 117 and 118 may be of similar construction as the breast-covering portions A and B of Figs. 1 and 2.

At the front of the garment there may be the supporting bone constructions 119 and 120, which will be of the same construction as indicated at 121 in Figs. 5 and 6.

As shown in Fig. 6, the covering fabric S is stitched at 122 to the elastic R and to a covering channel member 123.

The other side of the channel member 123 is stitched, as indicated at 124, to the edge 125 of the fabric sections 111 and 112 and also to the edge of a covering fabric section.

The reinforcing strips 127 may be positioned between the covering section S and the covering facing 126 and the elastic section R and the inner sections 125, all of which are stitched together by the stitching 124.

The facing section S is provided with an additional fullness so that when the garment of Fig. 4 is stretched upon the figure, it will expand and be drawn taut, as shown in Fi 5.

if desired, the extra fullness of the covering section S may also be provided to cover the slide fastener 113 and the side elastic sections D of Figs. 1 and 2.

The bones T are inserted in the channels 123 at the positions 119, 120 and 121 to give extra support where the straps 144 of Figs. 1 and 2 are omitted.

As shown in Fig. 4, there are two central sections 135 between the stiffening or supporting channels 120, which are centrally joined together by a central seam 136.

This structure may replace the front seam structure 71, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, and the sections 135 may be of elastic, if desired, and covered by a section such as shown at S in Fig. 6.

The elastic panels may be changed in position and they may be eliminated, particularly in the front and on the sides, so that they will only be in the back of the garment, in the manner shown in Figs. 4 and 5.

Desirably, where a covering fabric or panel is provided, as is indicated at S, the panel is shirred in position with an elastic thread.

The present application is a continuation-in-part of application Serial No. 170,345 filed June 26, 1950, and the structure of the garment as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 4 and 5 may also be modified to take the form as shown in such co-pending application.

The type of garment disclosed gives a particularly graceful fit and is desirably of a taffeta weave fabric.

It gives a full uplift, complete separation, diminishes the waistline and enables most satisfactory control of the diaphragm.

While there has been herein described a preferred form of the invention, it should be understood that the same may be altered in details and in relative arrangement of parts within the scope of the appended claims.

Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the invention, and in what manner'the same is to be performed, what is claimed is:

1. In a brassiere type garment, two breast cups, each formed of two breast cup sections, one top section forming the top and central portion of each breast cup and the other bottom section forming the lower outside portion of each breast cup, the top sections of the two breast cups converging downwardly toward the front center of the garment and being secured together along the front center of the garment and front panels extending from the bottom edges of the breast cups to the waistline of the garment.

2. The brassiere type garment of claim 1, said sections being woven and each having their bias extending laterally across the garment with the bias of the top section extending circularly from the outer edge of the breast cup, then across the top of the breast cup and then downwardly toward the lower corner of the breast cup, said lower corner being adjacent the center of the garment.

3. The brassiere type garment of claim 1, said front panels consisting of inside woven fabric panels and outside elastic fabric panels, the inside woven fabric panels being stitched at their upper edges to the lower edges of the breast cup and being stitched to one another at their inside edges along the front center line of the garment and said elastic fabric panels being stitched at their upper edges to the lower edges of the breast cups and at their inside edges to the outer edges of the first-mentioned woven panels.

4. A breast cup construction for a brassiere type garment consisting of two sections, one a top section and one a bottom section, the top section forming the top central and inside portion of the cup, said inside portion being adjacent the front center of the garment and the other bottom section forming the lower outside portion of the cup, said cups being secured together along a seam extending from the outside edge of the breast cup at the side of the garment and thence across the center of the cup and thence downwardly to the lower edge of the cup to adjacent the front center of the garment said inside portion terminating at a front center line of the brassiere and extending to a point below the lower edge of the bottom section.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,253,902 Gordon Aug. 26, 1941 2,456,552 Whittner Dec. 14, 1948 2,551,612 Kunstadter May 8, 1951 2,578,175 Cuozzi Dec. 11, 1951 FOREIGN PATENTS 403,418 Great Britain Dec. 13, 1933 

